Ai Mori sealed a historic win today in Bern ©Getty Images

Ai Mori has become the first Japanese athlete to win lead gold at the International Federation of Sport Climbing World Championships in Bern.

She denied Olympic champion Janja Garnbret a second title, following her bouldering victory yesterday, despite both reaching the top hold on the wall at the PostFinance Arena.

Ai claimed the victory as both her semi-final score, of 52, and 1.73 qualification total were superior to Garnbret of Slovenia's 47 and 1.0, respectively. 

The 2021 lead world champion Seo Chae-hyun of South Korea rounded out the top three as she managed to get to the 47+ mark.

Garnbret's compatriot Mia Krampl and Brooke Raboutou made up the top five with respective scores of 52 and 39+.

The podium for the men's lead final ©IFSC/Lena Drapella
The podium for the men's lead final ©IFSC/Lena Drapella

The 16-year-old Sorato Anraku was just inches away from sealing an unprecedented Japanese golden double.

He scaled the wall all the way to the 48 mark but Austrian bronze medallist from Tokyo 2020 Jakob Schubert's 48+ saw him snatch the title.

The result sees Schubert continue his remarkable career which has seen him establish himself as one of the most successful sport climbers in history.

His fifth World Championships gold achieved in the Swiss capital adds to a European Championships triumph last year in Munich and seven World Cup wins.

Speaking following his win Schubert said: "This field is so crazy strong, I knew I had to have the climb of my life to win this World Championship title again. 

"I feel like the lead field is stronger than ever. The emotions are crazy right now."