Ekaterina Barashchuk took the women's speed title in Villars ©IFSC/Lena Drapella

Indonesian world record-holder Veddriq Leonardo won his second consecutive International Sport Climbing Federation (IFSC) World Cup speed title in Villars.

In the women’s speed event, Russia's top qualifier and world record-holder Iuliia Kaplina was beaten in the final by an outstanding performance by compatriot Ekaterina Barashchuk, who won after stopping the clock at 7.306sec.

Kaplina, whose world record stands at 6.964, could only manage 8.397 in response in the crucial climb.

Baraschuk, one of three Russians in the final, was clearly overcome with emotion as she sailed back down to earth on her rope.

The bronze medal went to Poland’s Patrycja Chudziak.

In what was the fifth IFSC World Cup of the season at the Swiss resort, Leonardo scuttled up the wall to take full advantage of an early slip by the soon-to-be silver medallist, Dmitrii Timofeev of Russia.

Leonardo’s compatriot Kiromal Katibin, whose short-lived world record at Salt Lake City in May was beaten by Leonardo in that final, had topped qualifying but had to settle for bronze on the night. 

Indonesia's Veddriq Leonardo won the men's speed event, with compatriot Kiromal Katibin third ©IFSC/Lena Drapella
Indonesia's Veddriq Leonardo won the men's speed event, with compatriot Kiromal Katibin third ©IFSC/Lena Drapella

Earlier Janja Garnbret, fresh from her lead and boulder double at the previous IFSC World Cup in Innsbruck, had topped women’s lead qualification for tomorrow’s semi-finals.

With comforting memories of a venue where she had earned four consecutive wins between 2016 and 2019,  Slovenia’s 22-year-old multiple-time world champion easily climbed the two qualification routes, finishing with two tops and securing first place.

Japanese athlete Abe Momoko, who finished 13th in her World Cup debut at Innsbruck, was second, with Garnbret’s team mates Lucka Rakovec and Mia Krampl respectively finishing third and fifth.

Natalia Grossman of the United States, who won successive boulder golds at the Salt Lake City World Cup events earlier this season, placed fourth.

In the men’s lead event, experienced Italian climber Stefano Ghisolfi confirmed his great shape by finishing with a 43+ score on route one, and a field-leading top on route two.

Olympian Alexander Megos of Germany followed in close second, while home favourite and 2019 lead gold medalist in Villars, Sascha Lehmann, took third place.

Both Ghisolfi and Lehmann won silver and bronze respectively in the lead competition in Innsbruck last week.

American Colin Duffy and Slovenia’s Martin Bergant completed the top five of the men’s qualification round.