The men’s head-to-head final saw Kriz beat Ukraine’s Kostiantyn Pavlenko, clocking a time of 6.14sec to his opponent's 6.27 on the Eurovea shopping centre’s K2 climbing wall.

"I am very satisfied as I was struggling with injuries past in two years," Kriz, who was the fastest qualifier, said.

"This is the second month since I was competing at the World Cup in Moscow, where I achieved fifth place.

"At that time, I started to feel that my shape is improving and I am finally healthy.

"Now, I just confirmed it."

In the women’s final, world champion Jaubert prevailed at the expense of fastest qualifier Patrycja Chudziak of Poland.

Chudziak made a huge mistake at the beginning and fell.

It meant Jaubert only needed to finish in 9.28 having managed a much better time of 7.99 in the semi-final.

"The competition was really tough for me as the wall was a bit different than the others at the other competitions," she said.

"I did not do well at the training but step by step, I learned it.

"I got used to it and I am very glad I managed to win.

"Speed is my main event and I started with the other only this year."

The bouldering finals were also held today with Austria's Elias Weiler and the United States' Megan Lynch winning the men's and women's titles respectively.

Weiler finished ahead of Japan's Yuji Fujiwaki and Kaito Watanabe.

Lynch, meanwhile, held off Japan's Serika Okawachi and France's Julia Chanourdie.

"I am living my dream," the American said.

The lead finals are due to take place tomorrow.